I am not a member of any club I can think of – golf, book or even the possible beneficial effects of group therapy have all been shunned. Private members clubs fare no better, and Residence on Stephens Green where I would know quite a few of the habitués never benefited from my subscription. That said, I have found myself inside the barrier on more than one occasion over the past year, a guest of this, that or the other member for this, that or the other greeting, meeting or launching. The food had eluded me though - I never quite made it past ordering anything beyond the liquid, , in spite of the rave reviews Chef Graham Neville has garnered for his food. The Residence restaurant has always been open for non-member bookings, so it was during Christmas week that I booked a table for two, safe in the knowledge that membership, however fleeting, would have its privileges, and a night away from pushing and shoving during this busiest of weeks, was a good idea.
Residence is located in a fine Georgian building on St. Stephens Green, adjacent to the Shelbourne Hotel. I brought along Deirdre Walsh, fellow foodie, project manager and wife, and after checking our reservation, we made our way through to the bar for a drink. The restaurant manager found us and gave us the menu’s, suggesting we take a seat in the parlour until we were ready to go to our table. Since it was Christmas, and we were looking at twelve days of turkey, we decided to opt for the tasting menu. This offers five courses, and the chef changes it regularly, so we were really looking at a surprise menu, which can work very well if the food is really top notch. Decision made, we were shown to our table.
The dining room is on the first floor, and the tables are set with good linen and nicely spaced, so we couldn’t quite hear the conversation between the property mogul and model at the next table, but then they couldn’t hear us moaning about not hearing them either. Some fine bread was brought, along with a large bottle of sparkling water. We didn’t need the wine list as the tasting menu is paired with a different complementary wine with each course. This took care of one more decision, and I was glad to meet Julie Dupouy, one of two female sommeliers in Dublin that I know of. Julie won "Best Sommelier in Ireland 2009" and we were looking forward to tasting her choices with the meal. She has constructed a well balanced wine list, which offers a comprehensive choice of wines from both large distinguished producers and small artisan suppliers. The list covers all the main regions in France, Italy and Spain as well as some fantastic new world wines. The full wine list is available throughout the club, and they also have a wide range of wines that are available by the glass.
We started with roast king scallops with pine nut puree and chorizo. Scallops were perfectly cooked, juicy and succulent and the pine nut puree was a new one on me, and worked very well indeed. Served with a glass of Spanish Vinhne verde, this was a really good start. Next up we were presented with a piece of poached black sole, and a large Dublin bay prawn, with a shaving of black truffle and brown butter sauce. Loved the prawn, though Deirdre was more taken with the sole, and we both enjoyed with the 2007 Pouilly Fusee. The courses started to become more meaty from here and our next dish was roasted breast of woodcock with braised leg, chestnut and port sauce. I love this piece of poultry, Deirdre always feels a bit squeamish, in sympathy of the recently deceased bird I think, but again it was a perfectly balanced dish, and was served with a glass of Givry 1er Cru Clos Salomon. You will also notice the use of chestnuts and pine nuts in the dishes, a definite sign of a chef using seasonal ingredients, always good to see. The next dish could be described as the main course, and was a loin of Wicklow venison with warmed potato, and a rich jus. A perfect winter dish, and like all the other on this evening, beautifully presented and tasting wonderful.
Dessert followed, baked Alaska 41 style, small and perfectly formed, with a glass of pink Champagne for good measure. This was followed by a cheese board, which rounded off a very good meal on a high note.
We sat over coffee for a while and Chef Graham Neville came out to say hello to his diners, stopping by our table. This young unassuming man has a delicate hand for fish dishes, obviously loves his ingredients and on this evening created a meal that ranks up there with anything I have eaten in Ireland, Michelin star or otherwise. I hope Residence makes it through its present difficulties, and on the quality of what is coming out of the kitchen and the attention and dedication of the staff, they deserve to. The bill, including service came to just under €300. Certainly not a cheap meal, but for the quality of the food, excellent service and some very good wine, I think it was value for money.
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