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Red Bank, Skerries.

Red bank skerries

5-7 Church Street Skerries, Co. Dublin.

+353 (0)1 849 1005

Price: € 120-200 (for two with wine)

Hours: Dinner Mon-Sat, and Sunday Lunch

Review

You can think of restaurants as organic beings: they have a life span, they come into being, they flourish, they achieve maturity and then slowly pass away. At least, that's the norm. Ten years would be a good run. But there are restaurants out there that are like hardy perennials, they flourish and continue to flourish year after year. Still, a twenty year life-span is unusual and any restaurant that can keep going through endless changes in fashion and style must be doing something right. That's when a restaurant becomes an institution, a fixture, a landmark. After twenty years another generation of diners have become customers and the restaurant lives on. The Red Bank in Skerries is one of these long-lived restaurants, its chef-proprietor Terry McCoy has nurtured his restaurant through hard times and good times and under his careful eye it still pulls in the customers. Paolo had dinner with an Australian friend who almost stayed for the dessert trolley.

Here is part of the review

The Red Bank is essentially a fish restaurant, which given its geographical position on the coast is unsurprising. You have several choices: a seasonal menu, a table d'hote or there's an a la carte. There are of course plenty of dishes for committed carnivores, but both Amber and I felt that the smart thing to do here was choose fish. Just to spread ourselves around the menu a bit I chose from the seasonal menu and Amber chose from the a la carte.

The wine list is fairly long and there are lots of reasonably priced wines on it, here the mark-up is what used to be considered normal, but these days is starting to look cheap as more and more restaurants really load up the wine prices. I chose a good New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, the Montana, and ordered a bottle of mineral water to go with it.

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Two prettily presented plates arrived with generous portions of fish on each. We swapped morsels and explored what we had. They were both very fresh and very fine pieces of fish, and I have to add that getting pollack was a bonus for me. It's a fish that you'll rarely see, fishmongers dislike its propensity to spoil quickly, but when you get a fresh piece as I had on my plate, it's a very good fish indeed.

But as with many things in life, the best was still to come. The dessert trolley, a multi-tiered creation, was wheeled over to our table and a spectacular array of cakes and gateaux were before our eyes. Chocolate and cream were much in evidence, as were fruits. There were seven or eight to choose from, which left Amber in something of a quandary, until the waitress suggested a taste of two different ones, giving her a slice of the chocolate tourte and a slice of the cheesecake. With supreme self-restraint I settled on some cheese instead.

We finished up with a couple of espressos and a little cognac for Amber, and sat for a while finishing off our wine. We looked around at a busy restaurant filled with happy diners.

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