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The Silver Fox Seafood Restaurant Kilmore Quay.

Silver fox

Kilmore Quay, Wexford, Ireland

053 9129888

Price: € 60-120 (for two with wine)

Hours: Easter to November – from 12 noon every day. Nov to Easter – Friday at 5pm, all day Sat and Sun

Review

The Silver Fox is just off the harbour in the implausibly pretty village of Kilmore Quay. On the way in, thatched cottages lined up on either side of the road, and if the BBC are ever looking for a setting for a maritime Marple, or dock side Downton, this is the place.

The restaurant is in a modern single story bungalow, painted light blue. Inside it is divided into separate rooms, and tables are well spaced with big, comfortable leather backed chairs. The walls are adorned with lovely oil paintings by local artist Ivan Sutton. Seascapes and landscapes, vie for attention with an homage to Yeats, showing the artist painting in his studio. They are all quite beautiful.

The menu is varied, but we are here for the seafood, and we choose accordingly.

Starters of half a dozen oysters are served on ice and are deliciously fresh, with a splash of lemon and a dash of Tabasco. 

Deirdre's special of crab claws, smoked salmon and crab meat is a lovely little seafood platter in itself, and would make a perfect light lunch with the homemade brown bread we have been nibbling. The crab meat is a million miles from the pasteurised puree you so often get, this is sweet and meaty and crabby, and reminds me of the days when we bought them fresh in Bullock harbour and cooked them ourselves.

Out main course brought the shared platter of whole lobster, mussels, scallops and prawns, which also brought gasps and some laughter from the next table. This was a feast of some proportion and we fairly demolished it. Sweet lobster, succulent prawns, delicious scallops and mussels that seemed to have been individually coated in garlic were wonderful, and a glass of Sauv blanc complemented it perfectly.

The Silver Fox is a great seafood restaurant in an enviable location. The village of Kilmore Quay is worth a trip in itself, and at a couple of hours from Dublin, this is a gem worth discovering. Excellent.

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