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The Signal Restaurant, Station House Hotel, Kilmessan, Meath

Station house restaurant 940x420

The Signal Restaurant At The Station House Hotel, Kilmessan, Co. Meath

00 353 46 9025239

Hours: Monday - Sunday inclusive Breakfast 7 Days: 8.00am-10.30am Lunch 7 days: 12.30pm - 5.00pm Early / Late Bird* Sunday - Friday 5.00pm - 7.00pm Dinner 7 days: 5.00pm - 9.00pm Bar Food 7 days: served all day

Review

The Signal Restaurant at the Station House Hotel once stood as a train station but now stands as one of Meath’s leading restaurants and hotels. Paolo paid a visit and liked what he found.

Once upon a time, there was a railway that ran through Kilmessan. And just as the name suggests, The Station House was just that.

The railway ran through what is now the car park and the one-time signal box, a standalone building, has been prettily converted into a bridal suite.

That's worth knowing, because there are extensive grounds full of flowers and flowering shrubs, and nestled in them is the old locomotive turntable, where wedding ceremonies are performed.

It's true to say that this place has been well set up for weddings.

Inside, there's a kind of chintzy comfort -- big comfy chairs in the lounge, plenty of dark wood and brass. Not surprisingly, the leitmotif is of railway memorabilia.

There are prints on the walls and lots of artefacts that all make reference to the building's earlier incarnation. Even the door stop at the front door is a cast locomotive.

We had a drink in the bar, where we got a chance to read the menu, which offers great value.

The set dinner is €26.95 for four courses, but the menu is constructed in such a way that, apart from the set-dinner choices, there are plenty of others that come with a supplement.

I thought it worked well; there are enough choices if you want to stick to the set menu, but if you want something else, you only pay a supplement rather than having to go to the à la carte.

The wine list is quite long with a reasonable mark-up.

I was about to drink just a glass and so was Denise. Lainey doesn't drink at all, so we handed the list to Peter to choose what was, in effect, his wine for the night.

He chose a decentSancerre, which was priced at €43.10, and we had a couple of bottles of mineral water as well.

Without any persuasion from me, we all managed to pick different dishes, some from the set menu and some with a supplement.

For starters, we had a mushroom soup, Station House smokies, roasted king scallops and a confit duck leg.

For mains, we chose a baked monkfish fillet, a belly of pork, a pan-seared fillet of salmon and a breaded fillet of whiting.

Before the meal proper began, we were offered a choice of four different and good breads, all made in the kitchens, and then, as an amuse bouche, we each got a demi-tasse of beef and tomato soup. That's a combination I haven't had before, but it worked and I liked it.

All our starters were very good. Peter especially liked the king scallops and I thought the smokies were simple and very tasty.

None of us chose to have the intermediary course of soup or sorbet. We just went straight to the main courses. The best of these was, without doubt, the monkfish which, like all the dishes we got that night, was generous in size, and it came with sauté shrimp -- a good combination.

I was pleased to see whiting on the menu, it's one of our indigenous fish and often unappreciated, which is a shame as it's a firm-fleshed fish with plenty of flavour.

I often think we place far too much emphasis on salmon, sea bass and cod. The sea abounds with plenty of other fish, all good to eat and good for you.

If we ate these fish more often, there'd be little need for all the farmed fish you find on restaurant menus.

I don't have a particularly sweet tooth, but anyone who does would enjoy the dessert selection in The Station House. Every one we had was expertly made and they all looked good as well.

Again, I had a favourite -- it was the Irish coffee cake which, despite a lack of appetite, I finished.

We ended the meal with teas and espressos, which brought the bill to €193.30. More than €60 of this was for drinks so, all in all, a good-value meal.

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