Suesey Street is the new name for Brasserie le Pont. Gone is the somewhat stiff executive dining room, and in its place a relaxed and beautifully designed supper club vibe with the same fab terrace and great food.
I arrived by wife-mobile, deposited outside as close as possible, since I am legless; well more hemI legless, since one of them doesn't work since I managed to break it. Down the few steps and inside, and John Healy is sitting waiting with a bottle of sparkling water and ' So they haven't chopped it off then' greeting.
The bar area has been re-modelled and it's now a cosy spot for a drink and a bite, since they are a selection of tasting plates available to share, as some customers around us were doing. After a drink and a chat it was time to eat and manager Austin showed us to a table, whereupon the two of them pulled the table out so the leg could get in. We were seated at the back wall, in a comfy corner table, both of us looking out at the room.
They have done a fine job on it, and splendid paintings and prints adorn seemingly random places, while dark wood paneling and mirrors are warm and cosy, and add to the clubby feel. Readers of a certain age will remember Suesey Street as one of Leeson Streets finest late night clubs in the 80's and 90's, when along with Strings and Leggs it played party central for Dublin's bright young things, both of us among them. It was also the original name for Leeson Street, so they have taken their inspiration twofold, historic and bohemian.
There were two menus, a pre theatre which is served from 6-7 and offers two courses for €25 and the A la Carte. We chose the A la Carte and the menu is short but nicely thought out, with about 5 starters and half a dozen more main courses. It reads well, and there are several we wanted to have including foie gras seared with brioche and cherry Cola, whiskey cured salmon or a lobster tail with rabbit tortellini.
Main courses were equally impressive and divided between sea and land; hake with caramelised cauliflower, monkfish with black pudding and pickled egg or half a Dover sole. The land and air offered, fillet beef with Gubeen custard, a duo of lamb or Barbary duck breast with carrot and elderflower.
An amuse bouche of diced beef with little dots of horseradish Mayo was wonderful, an almost deconstructed steak tartare it was delicious and set us up nicely. John started with the Goat's cheese with lemon and heirloom tomatoes which he polished off in short order and liked immensely. I couldn't pass the lobster and it was a brilliant dish; lobster tail was a perfect tortellini of rabbit was sitting in an intense lobster bisque, while a malt creme fraiche added another dimension.
Main courses brought me a perfect half Dover sole on the bone sprinkled with capers and a vanilla butter was poured over at the table, adding a bit of theatre. John's duck didn't lack presentation either, and was arranged around with whole baby carrots, apricots and almonds in hay. Both dishes were excellent, and we decided to rest a while to give us a chance to try the desserts.
The special dessert tummy was soon ready and we enjoyed a delicious duo of chocolate and a passion fruit cheesecake which looked as good as they tasted. Coffee finished us off, and we sat and chatted about what had been an excellent meal.
Suesey Street is really very good indeed. The food is quite serious, in that sense it is fine dining, but it's served in a relaxed setting that would suit a boisterous night out with friends or a quiet diner for two. So, it's fine dining rather than formal, and marries the two very well indeed.
I could see myself booking a party of friends here, I think the room really suits a bit of high jinks. The terrace is still one of the best in the city and of a summers evening it's hard to find a better spot for a bit of Al fresco dining.