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Indie Spice Swords

Indie spice toi

Burgundy House, Forster Way Swords. (Just off Main Street)

+353 (0)1 8077999

Hours: Monday To Friday Lunch 12pm - 2.30pm Dinner 5.30pm - 11.30pm. Saturday12.00pm - 11.30pm Open all day. Sunday1.00pm - 11.00pm Open all day.

Review

Indie Spice is a group of contemporary Indian restaurants serving modern Indian foos with some panache. It has outlets in Belfast, Naas, Sandymount and Swords. This week I went with Gerard of Taste of Ireland to the Swords Indie Spice.

The entrance is in a lane parallel to Main Street, Swords and it's on the first floor. As we got to the top of the stairs we found a well-appointed room, bright and airy with comfortable chairs and smart cutlery and crockery.

We had a choice of two menus, the Indie Season menu, which was an early bird menu offering two courses for €16.95, or the à la carte. We decided on the à la carte. Gerard chose the Murgh Chaat, which was chicken in a tangy sauce, and he followed that with Goan fish curry. I decided to start with an old favourite, the onion bhaji, and followed that with lamb rogan josh.

"You're not being very adventurous," Gerard said to me as I ordered. True, I wasn't, but if a restaurant can do old favourites well, then there's a fair chance it can do the rest well too. Our waiter asked Gerard how he'd like the curry: mild, medium or hot. "Hot," said Gerard without hesitation. "You sure?" I asked. "I lived in Goa for six months and I'm well used to hot curries. Trust me, this won't be Indian hot, they never believe you when you say you'll have it hot," he replied.

To go with our main courses we ordered egg fried rice, Pilau rice and garlic and coriander naan bread. We also managed to dispose of a large bowl of poppadoms while we waited for the starters. I liked what we got, the bhajis were crisp and finely flavoured, while Gerard's chicken dish was tastier than I'd imagined. It came served on a fried pancake, which held the spicy sauce nicely.

Two large flats arrived with our main courses, each containing a generous portion. My lamb rogan josh was as good as any I've tasted and I managed to finish most of it. It took me a while to pluck up the courage to taste the 'hot' curry as I'm easily reduced to tears by super hot peppers. Turns out Gerard was right, the spiciness was well within my range and I liked the taste.

In many ways, Indian cooking reminds me of Italian cooking. They're both predominantly savoury cuisines, so looking at the desserts on a menu in an Indian restaurant is like looking at desserts on an Italian menu. In truth neither Italians nor Indians are good at desserts. In Italy you might find a tiramisu, a zabaglione and an ice-cream, but that's about it. Here in Indie Spice, they have another solution and offer seven desserts, not one of which is Indian.

Banoffi, Bailey's cheesecake, strawberry ice-cream, coffee ice-cream, caramel parfait, vanilla ice-cream and a mixed assiette plate. We chose the assiette plate at €6.95 to share and it came with the dark chocolate passion-fruit, white chocolate and raspberry, apple, chocolate tear-drop, orange chocolate wedge, lemon tartlet and a duo of dark and white chocolate.

Normally when I see an espresso at €2.95 I think 'rip-off'. But here I was delighted to pay that because this was one of the few times I've seen a restaurant use a Nespresso machine. Yes, the little pods are expensive, but the system unarguably makes a very good espresso. Plenty of crema – normally not present – and good flavours. It's an idea more restaurants should consider. The last taste in your mouth when you leave a restaurant is the coffee, why not leave the customer with a good taste? We got a bill for €101.85, and left as two happy diners.

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