Review
When Patrick Guilbaud first opened his eponymous restaurant in 1981, it was in an Arthur Gibney designed building to the rear of the Bank of Ireland HQ on Baggot Street. It was in this idiosyncratic building that RPG got their two Michelin stars, before they moved to the Merrion in 1997. A few years back designer Laura Farrell sympathetically re-imagined the space and the result is a very fine dining room indeed. The entrance lounge is finished in citrine walls with a carpet of sparkling grey, bespoke furniture and a centre piece bar add twenties twist, and the effect is perfect for this culinary landmark.
We arrived for dinner and were shown to our table at back of the room, with a perfect view. The other tables were made up of family groups, business dealers and couples out for a special night. A selection of breads was soon offered and we both had two; a little bacon and onion baton and a seaweed roll. Both were delicious and the arrival of a pea mousse and ham amuse bouche set the standard for what was to follow.
We decided on the four course option, and started with a cheese soufflé for me, which was quite delicious, while Deirdre had the most striking scallops, standing proud on the plate and deliciously sweet and cooked perfectly.
For fish course Dee had the black sole, rolled vertically and served with prawn and saffron butter and tomato Viennoise. The fish was firm and perfectly cooked, and the other elements combined to create a dish more than the sum of its parts. I had the native lobster tail, delicately poached and with a cherry blossom sauce. This uncomplicated dish relied on the natural flavours taking centre stage and was excellent.
Our meat courses comprised spiced Castle Dermot lamb fillet, which was as perfect a piece of meat as you will find. Little parcels containing smoked sheep’s cheese were stunning with the meat, while the jus was perfect.
Dee has the duckling, a perfect fillet accompanied by a confit in a separate bowl, finished with lavender and Szechuan.
Desserts brought an extraordinary soufflé for Dee, with a sweet rice and lime while I had the homage to milk and honey, and delicate confection of simple flavours.
Needless to say, service was excellent throughout, and although this is fine dining, there is a lightness of touch in the interaction that belies the formality, and it is all the better for it. I wasn’t drinking, but Deirdre had a glass of delicious Albariño with her fish and a delicate Pinot Noir to follow, each perfectly paired with the food.
There are some things on the menu here that don’t change. It is one thing to get Michelin stars; it’s another entirely to retain them year in, year out, for decades. It is this consistency and focus that sets RPG apart, and one of the reasons a meal here is a special pleasure. A rare treat.
