Vaughan’s Eatery is at Vaughan’s Eagle House in Terenure, in the heart of South Dublin. This neighbourhood restaurant offers a menu and wine list that sets it apart from the standard pub fare.
Vaughan’s Eatery has been open for almost four years now, originally with Olivier Quenet in the kitchen. Working alongside him was Michael Sabik, who is now the head chef. Vaughan’s is on a pivotal position on the main crossroads in Terenure village.
The Eagle House is a long-established pub, as the large photograph of the trams passing its doors attests. Inside, it's nicely laid out with tables and nooks, and there's an upper level which has linen on the tables. Actually, the menu is the same wherever you sit -- some people prefer the linen. We sat upstairs and had the linen, which to me is like a frame around a painting; it complements the food.
There is a choice of menus; and early bird runs until 7.30 pm and offers two courses for only €15.50, while a set menu with some of the most popular dishes runs all evening and cost €19.90 for two courses, so there is plenty of value to be had. Carnivores are well catered for, as they do the steak on a stone, which has become so popular here in recent years, and then there is the A la Carte.
The wine list was created with the help of ex- Guilbaud’s sommelier Charles Derain, and it is well chosen and very keenly priced, starting with several bottles under twenty, and rising to a very modest €35 for a decent Chablis.
Expect to see some French influence, but the menu is going solidly modern Irish, with a good selection of dishes you will find on most good bistro menus; pork belly, a choice of steaks, roast duck breast, fillet of sea bass, while there is a separate vegetarian menu, and one specifically for coeliacs.
We loved the starter of mackerel roasted in a parcel, the flavours were spot on and this underused fish was a star. A vegetarian beetroot mousse with red cabbage worked well and was fresh and different. Main courses continued to impress, with the skillet of fresh and shellfish in a white wine veloute was a triumph; great fresh flavours enhanced with fresh herbs and some baby potatoes, this was one pot cooking done very well. A well flavoured piece of lamb was simple and very good, but lost out to the fish in the battle of the dishes.
We struggled with a shared chocolate dessert, which was very good, but we were fairly full at this stage and two good coffees brought a very goods meal to a happy conclusion. Service was brilliant throughout, with a very happy group of staff doing a great job.
Vaughan’s Eatery is very good indeed, and they are claiming their niche of favourite neighbourhood restaurant in Terenure with some aplomb. Well worth dropping by.